Oval Peak (8,795ft)
David approaching the summit
Eric and David
February 11/12, 2017
We left the Twisp River Sno Park at 6am Saturday morning and skinned up about 9 miles to the west buttermilk trailhead. After following the trail for about 3 miles we cut up into the woods on the right. It was very steep and slow going on the skis, but an hour after dark we reached a flat area around 6500ft and set up camp.
The next morning we left camp around 5:45am, ascended an even steeper slope, then reached a big plateau east of the peak. We ascended the east ridge of oval peak, and were forced to ditch our skis just above treeline. There were too many boulders sticking out for it to be skiable. We continued climbing, avoiding huge cornices on the right side of the ridge, and summitted at 9:30am.
The ski back to camp was amazing, but descending from camp to the trail was difficult in the dense trees. We eventually reached the road, which was compacted by snowmobiles, and arrived at the car at 5:30pm, ready for the long drive back to Seattle.
Osceola Dog Leg Slide Alpine Ice Climbing
Kyle climbing one of the WI2 bulges
February 4, 2017
Eric, David, Kevin, Kyle, Mike, Ana, John, Donald, Greg, Nicholas
We parked at Greeley Ponds trailhead, and walked down the Kanc for 1 mile to the East Pond trailhead, which is currently unplowed. From here we hiked up the east pond trail until about a quarter mile beyond the stream crossing, then cut left into the woods near a large boulder on the right.
A bit of bushwhacking led us to the main slide, where we split up into four rope teams, two groups of three and two groups of two. After staggering our starts, there was plenty of room in the gully to accommodate all climbers.
The route was a bit snowy, so only had about 3 or four short pitches of WI2 or so ice, but we had fun climbing the snow in between and practicing mountaineer rope coils.
At the top of the climb we followed a secret trail to the summit of Osceola, then had fun glissading back to the cars. In all it was about a 10-hour round trip.
Rapping the route
Mt Lowell, Unnamed route on SW face (WI 3)
Eric and Dave
February 3, 2017
We left Boston at 5:30am Friday morning, seeking an ice climbing place where there would be no crowds. That weekend was the annual New England Ice Fest, and all the usual places would likely have lines. Not Mount Lowell. The ice there was not in any guidebook, and it’s unclear if it’s ever been climbed. It also required a 6-mile hike in plus some bushwhacking. There was a good chance we’d have it all to ourselves.
I’d seen a broad 250ft tall cliff on the side while hiking up Mt Carrigain years ago, and had wanted to check it out for a while. By 9:30am we were on the trail hiking. We pulled sleds on the mostly flat trail, and encountered a few other hikers descending the mountain. A few hours later we reached the height of land in Carrigain notch, and saw a few promising ice lines on the cliff on the southwest face of Mt Lowell.
We kept hiking until we’d seen the whole cliff, and chose to climb the line on the far left (north) side of the cliff. We would have to save the other lines for another time.
A short bushwhack, then a snowfield climb led us to the base of the cliff and a wide WI3 flow of yellow ice all the way up the cliff. Dave led up with me belaying in the snow. When Dave reached the end of the rope, we started simul-climbing until Dave reached the trees above and built an anchor. The climb was fun, but it was hard to keep my hands warm in the cold.
It’s unclear if the route has been climbed before, but we left a rappel anchor so now anyone else going in will know it has been climbed. We rapped down, and started the long hike back to the car, reaching it by 7pm.
Robinson Mountain (8,726 ft)
Birkan on the summit ridge
Eric and Birkan
January 28-29, 2016
Robinson Mountain is one of the few Washington Hundred Highest mountains with a trailhead that is reasonably accessible in the winter. With a good weather forecast, we drove out to near Mazama Friday night and camped out in the car at the Yellow-Jacket sno-park. By 5:45am Saturday morning we started hiking the 3 miles to the trailhead on snowmobile trails.
The trail was (unsurprisingly) not broken, and we spent the next 9 hours breaking trail. Shortly before sunset we reached a flat area at 6,5000ft in the cirque southeast of the peak, and pitched camp. I had a bit of extra energy, so while Birkan was melting snow I broke out a trail up to the SE ridge to give us a head start the next morning.
We were hiking by 6am the next morning, and soon gained the ridge. The conditions were tricky, with the snow deep enough to warrant snowshoes, but steep enough to want crampons. We carefully avoided cornices, and at one point pitched out a short 4th class section. By 9am we determined our progress was much too slow to reach the summit that day, so we bailed out and descended back to camp. We made it back to the car that afternoon, and back to Seattle that night.